The Kayan Mentarang National Park is the largest conservation area on the island of Borneo. It is not only an area covered with rich montane tropical forests and extraordinary biodiversity, it is also the land of the Dayak people where history and culture have helped shape the natural landscape.
The Kayan Mentarang National Park straddles the far interior of East Kalimantan bordering Sarawak (Malaysia) to the west and Sabah (Malaysia) to the north. Over 60% of the park area lies within the boundaries of the District of Malinau. Some areas of the park are ideal spots for ecotourism expeditions, traditional Dayak culture, river adventures and forest trekking. The sub-districts of Pujungan and Bahau Hulu, District of Malinau, are located in the very far interior of Borneo. This is part of the Heartland of Dayak Kenyah and other groups who settled this area since hundreds of years ago.
HULU PUJUNGAN
The tiny village of Long Jelet is at the confluence of the Jelet and Pujungan rivers, a 4-hour trip by motorized canoe from Long Pujungan. There is a special and friendly atmosphere in this village which is the gate to magnificent jungle and historical sites (cave burials) in the interior of Borneo. The local ecotourism committee has opened various trails to majestic waterfalls and peaks in the area. Accommodation is in the houses of local people. Facilities are modest but adequate, and the experience unforgettable. Trekking trails also link the villages of Long Pujungan, Ketaman, Long Jelet, and Pua. Local guides are ready to accompany tourists in the discovery of pristine forests and wild rivers.
Ecotourism destinations in Hulu Pujungan
1. Batu Ului, or the Ului rock, is a stony peak soaring from the bank of the Pujungan River, upstream from the village of Long Jelet. The hike to the summit takes about 2 ½ hour from the place where the trekkers leave the motorized canoe. The trail to the top climbs the forested slopes. The terrain is at times steep and slippery, but the reward for those who make it to the top is a magnificent view over the Pujungan River valley and the surrounding mountain peaks. Expert local guides will assist the tourists.
Roundtrip from Long Jelet: 6-7 hours
Difficulty of the trek: medium
Things to bring: good hiking shoes and drinking water; long sleeves are recommended.
Cost of the day tour: Rp 350,000 for 1 to 2 persons, inclusive of meal, guide fees, and boat transportation from Long Jelet.
2. U’ung Melu’ung waterfall. The enclave and view of this 50-meter high waterfall is stunning. The water drops from the high ridge and forms a deep pool where visitors can enjoy a cool break from the heat and humidity. In the area, it is easy to encounter wildlife attracted by the presence of salt leaks. The trail to the waterfall takes a short 30 minutes from the bank of the Pujungan River. From Long Jelet, a motorized canoe can take tourists to the place where the trail departs in 1 hour of navigation through rapids. Not far from the Melu’ung waterfall, a trail takes trekkers up a steep terrain to ancient cave burials at the small Lidem River.
Local guides will accompany tourists.
Roundtrip from Long Jelet: 3-4 hours
Difficulty of the trek: easy
Things to bring: good hiking shoes; insect repellent, and drinking water; long sleeves are also recommended.
Cost of the day tour: Rp 400,000 for 1 to 2 persons, inclusive of meal, guide fees, and boat transportation from Long Jelet.
3. Bum River waterfall. The hike to this 60-70 meter high waterfall is a perfect immersion in the nature of the Hulu Pujungan. The round-trip trek takes 2 days from Long Jelet with an overnight stay in a natural camping ground (basic wooden platform for resting is in place) at a crossroad in direction of the waterfall and other nearby natural attractions. The trail climbs the steep slope from the river and then wanders through old swidden sites to the waterfall. There are ancient cave burials up on the high limestone cliff that borders the valley.
Local guides will assist tourists on the trek.
Roundtrip from Long Jelet: 1 ½ day
Difficulty of the trek: medium
Things to bring: good hiking shoes, insect repellent, flashlight, mosquito net and sleeping bag, and drinking water; long sleeves are also recommended.
Cost of the tour: Rp 400,000 for 1 to 2 persons, inclusive of meals, guide fees, and boat transportation from Long Jelet.
BAHAU HULU
Kenyah Dancer - Apauping
In the Bahau Hulu sub-district, not too far from the village of Long Alango, the Tropical Forest Research Station of Lalut Birai will surprise visitors. Lalut Birai has served as a research and documentation center on the ecology of tropical forest for over 10 years. The research station was built by local people and WWF-Indonesia in the tana ulen, the traditionally protected forest of the people of Long Alango, in 1991. Continuing upstream along the Bahau River, visitors will pass the village of Long Kemuat, and the burial site of Long Pulung. In Long Berini, it is possible to witness Dayak Kenyah cultural revival and traditional carving. More traditional dancing awaits travelers in the village of Apau Ping, the last settlement before the border with Sarawak. The grasslands of Long Tua, upstream from the village of Apau Ping, is a unique place and one of the best wildlife watching areas in the Kayan Mentarang National Park. From Apau Ping, trekkers can also arrange long-distance forest treks to Long Layu, Krayan Hulu, the highlands to the north.
Ecotourism destinations in Bahau Hulu
1. Lalut Birai Tropical Forest Research Station
Stasiun Penelitian Hutan Tropis Lalu Birai
Nestled along the Nggeng stream and amid beautiful, pristine forest, the research station of Lalut Birai offers basic research facilities and accommodation for visitors. It is currently managed by a local committee in Long Alango. A short boat ride will take tourists from Long Alango to the estuary of the Nggeng River. From there, tourists will follow a forest trail to the research station. Short and long stays at Lalut Birai can be arranged with the local committee. Around the station, steep trails take tourists deeper into the forest to witness a rich animal life.
Roundtrip from Long Alango: 3-4 hours
Difficulty of the trek: easy to medium
Things to bring: good hiking shoes, insect repellent, drinking water, sunhat, long sleeves are also recommended.
2. Long Berini
Performances of traditional dances and old rituals can be arranged in Long Berini with the local cultural committee. The committee works closely with the Tourism Office in Malinau. Tourists can spend a few hours or one day in Long Berini learning about traditional wood carving, listening to the music of sampe’, the traditional Dayak guitar, or visiting the ancient burial site of the Ngorek people across the river from the village.
Distance from Long Alango: 2 hours (by boat and on foot)
Difficulty of the walk: easy
Things to bring: hiking shoes, drinking water, sunhat, long sleeves are also recommended.
3. Apau Ping and the grasslands
Apauping Grassland
The grassland of Long Tua, upstream from Apau Ping, are a unique ecosystem home to one of the last remaining populations of wild cattle (banteng) in Borneo. Other wildlife like deer and wild pigs can be easily seen graze early in the morning or in the late afternoon. The area has been traditionally managed and regularly burned by local people to maintain its ecological functions. A hut built by the ecotourism committee at the estuary of the Tua River provides basic overnight accommodation for wildlife watchers and trekkers heading to the Krayan.
Distance from Apau Ping: 2 hours (by boat and on foot)
Difficulty of the trek: medium
Things to bring: good hiking shoes, drinking water, sunhat, insect repellent, long sleeves are also recommended.
How to get there
Akses ke Pujungan dan Bahau Hulu
The easiest access to Pujungan is by big motorized trading boats up the Kayan and Bahau rivers from the town of Tanjung Selor, Bulungan District, or from the village upriver of Long Bia. Several rapids make the navigation challenging. Information on departing boats can be sought from traders in Tanjung Selor and Long Bia. The boat trip is part of the real river adventure. The trip can take one full day to or 1 ½ day with overnight stay in one of the several shelters along the Bahau River. From Long Pujungan, small motorized canoes will take tourists further upriver to Long Jelet and Long Alango. Transportation upriver is arranged by the local Ecotourism Committee in Long Pujungan.
Tanjung Selor can be reached by regular speed-boat service from Tarakan. Tarakan is connected daily by plane to Balikpapan, Jakarta and Surabaya.
It is also possible to charter MAF flights from Malinau to the airstrips of Long Pujungan or Long Alango. This might be more expensive but ideal for a small group of travelers (3-4 people). Charter flights must be arranged ahead of time with MAF (Missionary Aviation Fellowship) in Tarakan.
Transportation fees for tourists from Long Pujungan (sub-district) to the Hulu Pujungan area (2005-2006):
Long Pujungan-Long Pua Rp 300,000/boat (up to two tourists)
Long Pua-Long Jelet Rp 300,000/boat (up to two tourists)
Long Pujungan-Ketaman Rp 200,000/boat (up to two tourists)
Homestay and Guide Fees in Hulu Pujungan (2005-2006)
Tarif Homestay dan Pemandu di Hulu Pujungan (2005-2006)
Accommodation and meals Rp 55,000/day/person
Guide Rp 50,000/day
Homestay and Guide Fees in Apau Ping (2005-2006)
Tarif Homestay dan Pemandu di Apau Ping (2005-2006)
Accommodation and meals Rp 80,000/day/person
Guide Rp 75,000/day
For further information, please contact:
Tourism Office, Malinau District
Ecotourism Committee Hulu Pujungan in Long Pujungan, Kecamatan Pujungan, Kabupaten Malinau, Kalimantan Timur.
Badan Pengelola Tana Ulen di Long Alango, Kecamatan Bahau Hulu, Kabupaten Malinau, Kalimantan Timur
Ecotourism Committee Apau Ping, Kecamatan Bahau Hulu, Kabupaten Malinau, Kalimantan Timur
WWF-Indonesia Kayan Mentarang National Park, Jalan Raja Pandita No.89 RT.07 Tanjung Belimbing, Malinau. Ph: 0553-21523